Julien: Curly James Dean Crop

With arresting emerald eyes and inky, shoulder length hair loaded with curls—Julien was bubbling with boyish enthusiasm. “Last year, when we thought the world was going to end, my wife and I traveled the world,” Julien brought up, sipping wine at the salon. He launched into a colorful story punctuated with French and frequent laughter. “We started in the Bahamas,” he said, eyes sparkling, then named stops in South America, Europe and numerous countries in Asia—each with accompanying anecdotes. Mid trip, the duo found themselves “[…]on a slow river boat in Laos, towards Vientiane—the Ibiza of Asia—where we rode in rubber tubes and stopped often for drinks at bars lining the banks.”

Julien is an actor, and while he usually pulls the hair back into a ponytail, we wanted to emphasize his facial structure and modernize the look with a trendy twist on James Dean’s timeless cut. “For Julien, I wanted to shorten the sides but leave curls at top of his head a little longer, for a full bodied bouffant,” David said.

We began styling with a toast, “Cheers! To peace in the world,” Julien said, clinking glasses with a smile.

How To:

1. To begin sculpting this modern classic, I pulled his long hair into a ponytail and snipped at the nape of the neck.

2. I parted the remaining sections and began trimming Julien’s hair to under an inch in back and sides, using my index and ring finger as a guide. As his hair forms ringlets, I clipped from right to left for a consistent cut despite the curls.

3. Once the majority of the long hair was gone, I employed a comb for an even closer crop, focusing on even length from ear to ear and under. I trimmed the section by his ears the shortest—modern coifs tend towards clipped sides with more length on top for styling flexibility.

4. Julien’s hair was now at three different lengths, so I checked over once more to ensure all sections faded smoothly into one another. There should be no sharp edges in this crop! James Dean’s hair has a relaxed, tousled quality that should appear casual, not overworked.

5. Once Julien’s cut was complete, I quickly styled it. Using a hair dryer and round brush, I injected volume to the roots of the longer sections of his hair.

6. Finally, I tousled his hair with No. 6 Glossy Plasteline For Wizards wax by Davines and scrunched to bring back his curls.

Voila! Julien had a curly bouffant ala James Dean. “I don’t like it—I love it!” Julien enthused. “Like a glass out of the dishwasher, I was clean before, but now I’ve been polished!”

David’s Hair Tips:
“When I cut men’s hair, I don’t use a buzzer. I dislike them because a buzzer actually splits the hair, so it grows out into split ends. When occasionally I use a razor, I always trim over with sharp scissors.”

Elissa: Spring’s Very Best Braid

Meet Elissa, a Brooklyn-based photographer with a quick laugh and a striking crop of thick, curly blonde hair. “My hair is really easy—I usually just wash it, use some cream then towel dry. I’ll even let it dry on the subway!” she mentioned with a smile. It’s hasn’t always been so bouncy, “When I was in 5th cut it really short, then it suddenly ‘boinged,’ and was curly!”

“I’ve always felt artistically inclined,” she explained, swirling white wine in a glass, “I wanted to be a photographer when I was younger. These days I’m a very hands-on photographer—I like working with film and black and white pictures.”

When she’s not working in the studio, “I explore!” Elissa exclaimed, “My area is really residential, so I explore [elsewhere in Brooklyn]. I really like Williamsburg—went to the Brooklyn Bazaar recently and it was amazing! I told my friend, ‘what is this magical place?’ ”

With a silver loop in her nose, a glittering watch and a blood-red manicure, for Elissa it’s all making standout art. “I love tattoos—it’s artwork on my body!” she said, indicating the cursive words on her wrist—Live, Love, Be. David felt a loose braid garnished with spring blossoms would complement Elissa’s curly look.

How:

1. To begin, I separated Elissa’s curls by hand, pulling the kinky spirals apart throughout her hair. It doubled in size!

2. To minimize frizz and bump up her shine, I spritzed with Kerastase Gloss Appeal shine serum.

3. Then, I drew two small sections just above the ears and rolled them under and towards the nape of the neck, pinning along the way.

4. Imagine a French braid, as I neared the nape, I added more hair to the two sections and created a thick ponytail.

5. I redefined some curls and made Elissa’s locks sleeker with a squeeze of Elixir Kultimate throughout.

6. Then, I braided the ponytail straight down while the remainder of her hair fell free.

7. To complete the look, I wove small pink blossoms into the rolled sections and in the braid—how romantic!

Voila! This free-spirited look is perfect for spring festivals, weddings, or Facebook profile pictures.

Julia: Persian Ponytail

“I’ve got the traveling bug, I love to travel!” Julia smiled brightly, gushing about her latest globetrotting adventures, “I recently visited India, Indonesia, then got to wander all over Europe.” Originally from Uzbekistan, this irrepressibly friendly nurse spent years in Brooklyn but travels at every opportunity. Where’s her favorite spot in New York? “I like the East and West Village, I like the neighborhood-y feel. On an ideal weekend, I would be barbecuing with family—I’m very close with my siblings and family.” We wanted to create and sleek and exotic look with modern art influences—a serious ponytail with plenty of shape. It nods to Julia’s Persian heritage—or at least the Disney film’s adaptation.

Hair How To With David:

1. This style must look perfectly sleek, with absolutely no flywayas. To begin, I lined up a perfectly straight side part, then brushed out her hair for a smooth base.
2. To flatten her roots, I sprayed K Kerastase sair spray then pulled her hair into a ponytail and smoothed the top of her head with my hands to eliminate frizz.
3. I secured this look with a tie, then pushed a medium sized foam ball (I got a pack from an art supply store) level with the tie, and spread Julia’s ponytail to completely cover the ball. I tied the remainder of the hair again just under the ball, sticking pins into the foam to keep Julia’s hair from sliding to expose it.
4. I repeated this process with two more foam balls, each smaller than the last.
5. Finally, I spritzed all over with K Kerastase Hair Spray and ran my hands across her hair to smooth one last time.

Voila! A modern Persian ponytail!

Beauty How To With Roberto:

Eyes:
Since her hair’s got a modern, almost architectural look to it, I want stark contrast with a strong cat eye. First, I filled in Julia’s brows with a stark, dark chocolate color. Before applying gel liner to her lids, I marked the lines with eye shadow for an even cat eye. Because of the shape of Julia’s eyes, I applied more thick gel liner to her lower lashes–I mixed with black cream since
my gel was a little dry. It created an ultra-black line, with a great flick at the end.

Skin:
For her skin, I blended and applied foundation—I purposefully used shades much lighter than her tone for a stark contrast with the brows and liner. Then I contoured with a darker, very thick concealer under the cheekbones. I blended a little concealer under the eyes, then completed the look with a pop of gold eye shadow on the lips for a sleek highlight.

Brunilde: The Girls of Paris SS/14

“My hair grows so fast!” Bru exclaimed, untying her waist-length blonde hair from a loose bun. “I went to a salon [in France] a year ago and asked them to cut my hair to my shoulders. They only cut an inch or two, so I went home and cut it myself!” she laughed.

“I moved from Paris to Chinatown about seven months ago,” she continued, “I love living there because there’s a lot of activity and movement. We could watch the Chinese New Year parade from the fire escape!” With straight hair parted dead center, inky leather boots, denim and a crop top with ruffled details—Bru’s vibe was very ‘60s bohemian. David was inspired by a modern, high fashion interpretation of this look, seen on the catwalks of Paris during the 2014 spring/summer fashion week. This Parisian look combines a very chic and sleek top with sexy curls and teased volume towards the ends. It’s a classic beauty look, but with just a few teaks looks fresh, trendy, and is easy to recreate!


How:
1. First, I brushed out Bru’s hair with a blow drier trained at the roots and over the brush, to make the hair appear sleeker and shinier.

2. Turning my attention to the ends, I began rolling her hair partway up with a set of 1” hot rollers, spraying each section lightly withKerastase K Hair Spray. Once misted, I curled the locks under and pinned.

3. I continued across the back and along the sides, leaving the top layer of Bru’s hair for last. I pulled the sections by her ears back, taunt, so they remained flat to the head. Finally, I curled the top layer partway up with the same size rollers.

5. After 5 minutes or so, I removed the hot rollers then began to tease and brush. I backcombed, focusing all the teased volume to the ends of Bru’s hair.

6. Further developing that sleek top, I smoothed K Forme Fatale gel from the roots outward for a layer of pin-straight hair. Then, I used flat pins to pull the hair by her roots completely flat.

7. But back to fun part—her curls! I flipped Bru’s hair upside down and brushed, blow dried then mussed up the texture. Finally, I flipped her hair back and tucked behind the ears.

8. Channeling the quintessential ‘60s hippie, I parted directly down the center then split the hair so equal parts spilled down both shoulders. Remember, pin straight from the root, and messy-voluminous curls towards the end.

9. Set the look with another spray of Kerastase and voila! Parisian fashion week.

Jacqueline – The Messy Mystique Updo

Meet Jacqueline, an e-marketer in the New York fashion industry. What’s her daily beauty routine? For beauty, “I prefer a more natural look,” Jacqueline stated, “I don’t like to pile it on! I’m more of a minimalist and I don’t like to clutter. It takes maybe 10 minutes to do my hair with a blow dryer in the morning.”

In a world of ever-changing trends, a strong sense of personal style never goes out of fashion. How would this fashionista describe her vibe? “My style is ‘90s grunge with prints and a statement piece, like a necklace. I love my leather jacket – I use it to pull together any outfit.” What’s the look to dress for this season? “For spring, pastels and prints are really in – I own 5-6 pairs of printed pants,” Jacqueline explained with almost a sheepish smile. “I have this blue, beaded necklace to I’ll use to take an outfit to the next level.” Exuding grunge-chic vibes, we felt a modern take on the classic updo would match Jacqueline’s style perfectly.

Hair How To With David:

1. Sleek updos are a glamorous hallmark—but why limit them to formal events? A few bobby pins and a little teasing is all you need for everyday glam! To begin Jacqueline’s style, I combed to detangle then misted all over with Kerastase hair spray.

2. Using a double barrel curler, I separated her hair into 2-3 inch sections and curled for loose waves. This step is all about waves; no curls, no frizz, just waves! I curled the entire head, misting each section lightly with hair spray to set.

3. Working my way to the top layer, I switched to a looser double curler and created spirals to frame Jacqueline’s face. At this stage her mane appeared crimped, with a few ringlets mixed in.

4. Mussing up the back of her head, I teased the crown for messy volume then whipped the majority of her hair into a loose and low ponytail, leaving the curled top section loose.

5. Continuing to tease for volume and beautifully untidy texture, I drew the remaining hair back and over, then pinned at the base for a bouffant look—pin all over to secure. Remember, this updo is all about the mess so if it’s too neat, tease some more!

6. For all-night hold, I completed the look with a final spritz of hair spray.

Voila! A glamorous, messy updo in six quick steps.

Beauty How To With Roberto:

Skin:
Always start with a clean, make-up free face and moisturize. I used a heavy moisturizer for Jacqueline—you can do this in lieu of a primer if you’d like. Blending several shades of foundation to match her skin tone, I applied all over for an even and matte look. Just a touch of blush and bronzer on the cheeks got Jacqueline glowing—then I swiped a small amount of sparkling eye shadow on the cheeks and blended.

Eyes:
For brighter eyes, I dabbed a bit of highlighter just above the brows and in the corners. To make her hazel eyes glow, I chose purple eyeliner as a shadow base then blended with a fluffy brush for smooth lids. Then, I mixed taupe liner with pearlized shadow and applied just under the eyes. A streak of gel liner and two layers of jet black black mascara completed her eyes. Just a kiss of light color on the lipand Jacqueline’s soft beauty look was complete!

Amanda: Playful Rocker Look

Amanda. What? Hair dresser and receptionist. When? Since she was 15. Where? Amanda lives in the Bronx. How Long? Born and raised in New York. With a short styled crop and long lashed doe eyes, Amanda exudes playful vibe with a rock n’ roll twist. “I like my hair messy and wild! I’m pretty busy, so I usually wet it before bed then add conditioner for great texture the next day.”

Soon after joining us in the salon, Amanda rolled up her sleeves and unbuttoned her jean blouse for a peek at elaborate ink designs. “I love tattoos—I have a tattoo on my chest, one on my side and the words Carpe Diem on my hand. I don’t have to keep my tats covered for work as long as I wear all black. I love it!” Amanda’s cut is similar to Jennifer Lawrence’s new pixie, so we used the actress’ lively look as inspiration and give it an edgy twist.

Hair How To With David:

1. A frisky cropped coif  calls for styling paste plus lots of hands on attention! I began by combing Amanda’s hair into an extreme side part.

2. We’re going for a sleek look at the bottom layer, so I applied Davines Hold Crème around ear level then combed around the back to follow the shape of Amanda’s neck. I left the top hair layer untouched.

3. With a blow drier on low heat, I brushed to smooth and set this sleek layer.

4. Amanda’s tousled, playful rocker look is all about the texture! Straightened hair is easier to style, so I flat ironed the untouched layer to prep her look.

5. Then, I teased with K Kerastase sculpting hair paste and created distinct pieces by squeezing locks together to emphasize Amanda’s cut and layers.

6. Once her hair was wild with piecey volume, I set the look with Kerastase hair spray. Finally, I styled the crown for an added bump of volume that brings attention to the face.

Voila! Amanda’s hair looked playful and sexy.

Beauty How To With Roberto:

Skin:
Always begin your makeup application with a good moisturizer—with Amanda I used a brush for quicker and more even application. I dabbed concealer under the eyes and the point of her brows and filled in her brows for a stronger look.  Since Amanda’s face is heart shaped, I brushed her blush high on the cheekbones, where I would typically use a highlighter. This flatters her facial structure!

Eyes:
Emphasizing her doe eyes is easy—I smoothed glittery shadow crème all over the lids, then penciled her lash line thickly with a purple liner to bring Amanda’s hazel eyes pop. An overworked look is no fun, so I blended a dot of highlighter on her lids and just under the brow.  This highlights your shape in a flattering way! For an edgy finish, I blended lip shades for a unique plum that complemented Amanda’s tone.

Samantha: Screen Siren Va-Va-Volume

Samantha’s wanted to sing on stage since childhood, “I remember being in a play when I was three—I was so afraid to be on stage!” Now she craves it, “I’m actually working on a cabaret right now! On weekends, I seek out karaoke.”

This theater student loves whipping up dishes in her spare time, “I like making the Italian classics like spaghetti and meatballs, I cook dinner every night.” With thick, chocolate-y locks, Samantha’s style options are limitless. “I’m pretty laid back with my hair though. I usually leave it down and keep my natural wave, or just put it up with a sock bun.” We felt an easy-to-style, classic curled look ala Monica Bellucci’s would suit Samantha’s classic star beauty.

Hair How To With David:

1. To begin Samantha’s hairstyle, I gave her a quick trim and created layers for a rounder, bouncier look. Sexy hair is all about layered volume—I wanted to bring sexy back!

2. For great elevation from the base, I parted her hair then applied Kerastase Lift Vertige gel at the roots and combed to distribute.

3. Separating the hair into sections, I used a round brush to dry and smooth her mane. Then, I rolled Samantha’s hair up into big curls and pinned at the head.

4. There’s no need to leave them in long—my goal is loose curls with major volume rather than distinct spirals.

5. After a short time, I removed the pins and brushed out her curls. Focusing a blow drier at the roots, I tousled and teased with my fingers for a lifted, bouncy look.

6. Reshaping Samantha’s side part and scrunching curls here and there to neaten, I back combed at the crown for a burst of volume.

7. Finally, I spritzed with hairspray to complete the look.

Voila! Samantha had screen siren hair with major, sexy volume!

Beauty How To With Roberto:

Skin:
I’m going to give Samantha strong smoky eyes with a fresh and dewy face! We’ll start this with a great moisturizer base applied evenly with a brush. For smooth skin tone with a healthy shine, I layered a brightening serum in addition to a light foundation. Using a tipped brush then tapping with my finger, I further corrected the tone by blending concealer under the eyes and alongside her nose. Next, I brushed her cheekbones with matte powder and a bit of blush for a fresh glow. For a wickedly smooth complexion, I completed the look with a sweep of hyaluronic powder across the cheeks.

Eyes:
Creating a slick base, I took a creamy pencil liner and smoothed over her lids with a brush. Then, working with the same shadow, I blended the tone and switched brushes for a harder line with more intensity at the lash line and corners. It’s just common sense—harder brushes create cleaner, darker lines while soft brushes easily blend color for the texture you want. For a strong ebony streak, I applied gel liner to thicken the look of Samantha’s lashes. Finally, I applied mascara for a wide-eyed, movie star gaze. I gave her thick, fanned out lashes by applying pressure at the roots and flicking up to catch the thin tips.

Roberto’s Make Up Tips: Mascara got you clumpy? Next time, apply heavy pressure at the roots as you fan the lashes out and flick to the tips. Pressure, flick, problem fixed!

Roberto’s Make Up Tips: Avoiding a hard foundation line is easy—you can wear a turtleneck, or just apply the right shade the first time! An easy trick is to match the cheekbone with the light skin on the neck, and match the darker tones just under the cheekbone with your shoulder blades.

 

Rukhsar: Downton Abbey Updo

Being a part of the salon world since she was 13, Rukhsar knew she wanted to be a hairstylist. A jersey girl who wanted to fulfill her dream in NYC, she found Red Market Salon. A perfect place to start her career. She was trained by David himself before she took off again to find herself. She eventually wants to work behind the scenes of fashion shows and editorial work. ” I love all the excitement and passion of our world field. I’m too creative to be stuck working a 9 to 5 job”

How To:
Using a section of the top of the crown,
create a braid. Tease all of the hair.
Then brush all of the hair into a pony tail and clip it to the top of the crown.

Amanda: Long Wavy Clip in Hair Extensions

Coming a long way from Staten Island and a Heavy Brooklyn accent, Amanda, an edgy, young, and pretty much fully tattooed freelance colorist comes in with a super short bob and the dream to have long hair. “I’m tired of having short hair,” Amanda explains. “I’ve experimented with color on my own hair so much in the past six years that I’ve damaged it and was forced to cut it off.”

Amanda is 21 years old and has been doing color since she was 15. She enjoys everything about the beauty industry, and has pursued a career as a celebrity air brush tan technician and started her own line of hair accessories called ETCnyc that she hopes to be in stores by Summer 2014. “I love making people feel beautiful and changing up their look, sometimes its good to have a change.”

Granting her wishes, David CotteBlanche used 14 inch clip in hair extensions to give her the look of long, sexy, voluminous hair.

First, I pre curled the extensions. I then blow dried and smoothed out Amanda’s hair using Kerastase’s Forme Fatale and the Kerastase Elixir Serum.

Starting a two inch section from the back, I started to tease the hair. I put in two of the clip in extensions.

I created another half inch section, teased it and clipped in two more extensions, I did the same thing all over. I then smoothed out her natural hair over the extensions to cover the clips, and teased the extensions to give volume.