Amanda: Playful Rocker Look

Amanda. What? Hair dresser and receptionist. When? Since she was 15. Where? Amanda lives in the Bronx. How Long? Born and raised in New York. With a short styled crop and long lashed doe eyes, Amanda exudes playful vibe with a rock n’ roll twist. “I like my hair messy and wild! I’m pretty busy, so I usually wet it before bed then add conditioner for great texture the next day.”

Soon after joining us in the salon, Amanda rolled up her sleeves and unbuttoned her jean blouse for a peek at elaborate ink designs. “I love tattoos—I have a tattoo on my chest, one on my side and the words Carpe Diem on my hand. I don’t have to keep my tats covered for work as long as I wear all black. I love it!” Amanda’s cut is similar to Jennifer Lawrence’s new pixie, so we used the actress’ lively look as inspiration and give it an edgy twist.

Hair How To With David:

1. A frisky cropped coif  calls for styling paste plus lots of hands on attention! I began by combing Amanda’s hair into an extreme side part.

2. We’re going for a sleek look at the bottom layer, so I applied Davines Hold Crème around ear level then combed around the back to follow the shape of Amanda’s neck. I left the top hair layer untouched.

3. With a blow drier on low heat, I brushed to smooth and set this sleek layer.

4. Amanda’s tousled, playful rocker look is all about the texture! Straightened hair is easier to style, so I flat ironed the untouched layer to prep her look.

5. Then, I teased with K Kerastase sculpting hair paste and created distinct pieces by squeezing locks together to emphasize Amanda’s cut and layers.

6. Once her hair was wild with piecey volume, I set the look with Kerastase hair spray. Finally, I styled the crown for an added bump of volume that brings attention to the face.

Voila! Amanda’s hair looked playful and sexy.

Beauty How To With Roberto:

Skin:
Always begin your makeup application with a good moisturizer—with Amanda I used a brush for quicker and more even application. I dabbed concealer under the eyes and the point of her brows and filled in her brows for a stronger look.  Since Amanda’s face is heart shaped, I brushed her blush high on the cheekbones, where I would typically use a highlighter. This flatters her facial structure!

Eyes:
Emphasizing her doe eyes is easy—I smoothed glittery shadow crème all over the lids, then penciled her lash line thickly with a purple liner to bring Amanda’s hazel eyes pop. An overworked look is no fun, so I blended a dot of highlighter on her lids and just under the brow.  This highlights your shape in a flattering way! For an edgy finish, I blended lip shades for a unique plum that complemented Amanda’s tone.

Samantha: Screen Siren Va-Va-Volume

Samantha’s wanted to sing on stage since childhood, “I remember being in a play when I was three—I was so afraid to be on stage!” Now she craves it, “I’m actually working on a cabaret right now! On weekends, I seek out karaoke.”

This theater student loves whipping up dishes in her spare time, “I like making the Italian classics like spaghetti and meatballs, I cook dinner every night.” With thick, chocolate-y locks, Samantha’s style options are limitless. “I’m pretty laid back with my hair though. I usually leave it down and keep my natural wave, or just put it up with a sock bun.” We felt an easy-to-style, classic curled look ala Monica Bellucci’s would suit Samantha’s classic star beauty.

Hair How To With David:

1. To begin Samantha’s hairstyle, I gave her a quick trim and created layers for a rounder, bouncier look. Sexy hair is all about layered volume—I wanted to bring sexy back!

2. For great elevation from the base, I parted her hair then applied Kerastase Lift Vertige gel at the roots and combed to distribute.

3. Separating the hair into sections, I used a round brush to dry and smooth her mane. Then, I rolled Samantha’s hair up into big curls and pinned at the head.

4. There’s no need to leave them in long—my goal is loose curls with major volume rather than distinct spirals.

5. After a short time, I removed the pins and brushed out her curls. Focusing a blow drier at the roots, I tousled and teased with my fingers for a lifted, bouncy look.

6. Reshaping Samantha’s side part and scrunching curls here and there to neaten, I back combed at the crown for a burst of volume.

7. Finally, I spritzed with hairspray to complete the look.

Voila! Samantha had screen siren hair with major, sexy volume!

Beauty How To With Roberto:

Skin:
I’m going to give Samantha strong smoky eyes with a fresh and dewy face! We’ll start this with a great moisturizer base applied evenly with a brush. For smooth skin tone with a healthy shine, I layered a brightening serum in addition to a light foundation. Using a tipped brush then tapping with my finger, I further corrected the tone by blending concealer under the eyes and alongside her nose. Next, I brushed her cheekbones with matte powder and a bit of blush for a fresh glow. For a wickedly smooth complexion, I completed the look with a sweep of hyaluronic powder across the cheeks.

Eyes:
Creating a slick base, I took a creamy pencil liner and smoothed over her lids with a brush. Then, working with the same shadow, I blended the tone and switched brushes for a harder line with more intensity at the lash line and corners. It’s just common sense—harder brushes create cleaner, darker lines while soft brushes easily blend color for the texture you want. For a strong ebony streak, I applied gel liner to thicken the look of Samantha’s lashes. Finally, I applied mascara for a wide-eyed, movie star gaze. I gave her thick, fanned out lashes by applying pressure at the roots and flicking up to catch the thin tips.

Roberto’s Make Up Tips: Mascara got you clumpy? Next time, apply heavy pressure at the roots as you fan the lashes out and flick to the tips. Pressure, flick, problem fixed!

Roberto’s Make Up Tips: Avoiding a hard foundation line is easy—you can wear a turtleneck, or just apply the right shade the first time! An easy trick is to match the cheekbone with the light skin on the neck, and match the darker tones just under the cheekbone with your shoulder blades.

 

Amanda: Long Wavy Clip in Hair Extensions

Coming a long way from Staten Island and a Heavy Brooklyn accent, Amanda, an edgy, young, and pretty much fully tattooed freelance colorist comes in with a super short bob and the dream to have long hair. “I’m tired of having short hair,” Amanda explains. “I’ve experimented with color on my own hair so much in the past six years that I’ve damaged it and was forced to cut it off.”

Amanda is 21 years old and has been doing color since she was 15. She enjoys everything about the beauty industry, and has pursued a career as a celebrity air brush tan technician and started her own line of hair accessories called ETCnyc that she hopes to be in stores by Summer 2014. “I love making people feel beautiful and changing up their look, sometimes its good to have a change.”

Granting her wishes, David CotteBlanche used 14 inch clip in hair extensions to give her the look of long, sexy, voluminous hair.

First, I pre curled the extensions. I then blow dried and smoothed out Amanda’s hair using Kerastase’s Forme Fatale and the Kerastase Elixir Serum.

Starting a two inch section from the back, I started to tease the hair. I put in two of the clip in extensions.

I created another half inch section, teased it and clipped in two more extensions, I did the same thing all over. I then smoothed out her natural hair over the extensions to cover the clips, and teased the extensions to give volume.

Julie – Vintage Curls-On-The Go Technique

What’s it like coloring hair in a fast-paced Manhattan salon if you’re not yet fluent in English? “It’s a bit strange, but I’m learning day by day,” Julie said. “I don’t feel stressed, I’m confident in what I’m doing and clients are pleased.” This French blonde with thick, straight hair is new to New York and has been a stylist for five years, fulfilling a childhood dream. Her fashion inspirations include Chanel, “I love that minimalist, classic style,” she said. What is Julie’s go-to daily ‘do? “With my own hair, I like to straighten and curl a little bit then pull into a pony tail.”

Her hair is moderately thick and quite long, so we decided on a loose look, curled with a vintage tissue-curling technique. David Cotteblanche, Red Market salon owner, explains that this method has fallen from popularity due to the prevalence of curling irons, but when you’re traveling or in a pinch for styling supplies, all you need for sultry texture and soft waves is a box of tissue, hair spray and some time.

How To:
1. First, I parted Julie’s hair straight down the center and combed to detangle. For texture that makes hair easier to style, I lightly sprayed with K Keraste Hair Spray.

2. Taking a box of tissues, I rolled a single sheet into a long tube slightly thicker than a pencil. Then, separating a section of hair approximately two inches wide and creating a “T” shape against the tissue, I rolled from the end of the hair under, towards the scalp and knotted loosely.

3. For allover curls, I repeated until every section of Julie’s hair was rolled into tissue-secured ties.

4. This style may be left overnight if you have time, or to quicken the process you may choose heat to instantly set the waves. I directed a hairdryer on medium heat over each curl, then spritzed with hair spray for a stronger hold.

5. Once complete, I untied the soft knots to see Julie’s hair fall into smooth, undulating waves. For a lift at the roots, I used the blow dryer to blow her hair directly up, then finger combed throughout for a natural wave.

6. At this point, her hair was had a pleasant bed-headed vibe. I drew two small sections of hair framing her face to the back, then twisted into a knot at the nape and secured with a bobby pin.

7. To complete Julie’s style, I ran my hands lightly over her hair with a dollop of Davines No 13 to tame any unruly strands.

Voila! Julie’s hair had soft, elegant waves with a laid-back knot.

| Make Up by Roberto Casey

Sarah – Scarlett Johansen’s Bouncy Curls

Dressed casually in lace-up booties, acid-wash boyfriend jeans and a crisp chiffon top, fashion student Sarah described her role in the industry. “I’m a design student at FIT—still learning exactly what I want to do, though I know I want to create women’s wear.” Her studies are grounded in looks she might personally wear. Accessorizing simply with a chunky beaded necklace plus chains and glass accents, the cutouts at her shoulders and layered neutrals contributed to a trendy and casual vibe.

“I have a couple of tattoos,” Sarah intimated, eyes sparkling. “I have one on my lower back that I got very young—my parents were not happy. My mother always called me the wild child,” she continued. She laughed often, and we felt a bubbly, curled look inspired by Scarlett Johansen’s unassuming beauty would complement Sarah’s style.

How To:
1. First, I created a side part in Sarah’s hair and blended Keraste Lift Vertige Fixation Gel into the roots for a dense, textured lift.

2. Then, I misted all over with K Keraste Hair Spray. Lightly applying hair spray prior to heat styling gives it great texture for a workable hold.

3. Sarah’s hair was now smooth at the roots, but I wanted bouncy volume at the ends so I blasted air from the blowdryer straight up and tousled.

4. To reduce frizz, I loosely styled with my fingers, then heated a flat iron and began straightening two inch sections from root to tip.

6. Styling away from the face, I flicked the end of Sarah’s hair into curls, a subtler version of Farrah Fawcett’s iconic look. Curling away from the face nicely frames your features!
7. For allover curls, I periodically lifted the upper layer of Sarah’s thick hair to curl underneath, alternating directions until her entire head was styled.

8. Once more, I used the blow drier to spray up from under the hair and tousled for body.

9. Smoothing things back down, I spritzed with Davines Sea Salt Spray and reshaped her curls by hand for a devil-may-care bounce.

10. To finish Sarah’s look with a smooth and brilliant shine, I applied Keraste Gloss Appeal to control flyaways.

Voila! Sarah’s hair was now styled into a lively bob channeling one of Scarlett Johansen’s best curled looks.

Robert,
RobertoOur guest makeup artist Robert dances to the beat of his own drum. He applied Julie and Sarah’s makeup backwards, a trick learned while teaching women to perfect their makeup. “When I apply it backwards, the only thing blocking their face is the brush. They can watch what I do in the mirror and learn it,” he said. “I love, love, love to teach makeup. I teach classes of up to eight people at a time—eight different eyes, eight different looks.”

What drew Robert to the industry? “Working at a department store once, I once saw an uber-hot woman walk up to the M.A.C counter and said, why am I hanging out with guys in the back, when I could be hanging out with her?” he laughed. It took time to get into the rhythm; “I absolutely hated makeup until I figured out why I actually like it. I like the instant gratification. I love stepping back and saying, ‘wow, I did that?’”

Musically inclined with impressive dance moves shown later in the evening, Robert explained that his background is in drumming, though he currently plays the guitar in a band. Infectious laughter and frequent smiles punctuated his makeup application. Robert created simple, natural beauty looks for both Julie and Sarah, with impressively fresh looks in shimmering earth tones.

Rachel: Princess Bardot

Meet Rachel, a bubbly blonde fresh from nursing school, and ready to spend her time getting to know New York city. “I’m getting married next September at an old plantation—I’m not a typical bride; I’m not really into wedding planning,” she shrugged. Twirling her long, golden hair, Rachel explains that she’s comfortable styling a thick fishtail, but prefers a more laid back look, “most days I just use a wand and flip it up into a braid.” For the big day, she’ll style an updo to match a low back wedding dress.

Rachel and her fiancé have been together for many years, and “live in sin in the Upper East Side,” she laughed. “He’s in finance, like every guy in New York.” Referencing the long working hours, she says their relationship thrives due to its solid base, “we’re really, really good friends.” David felt Brigitte Bardot’s very sexy, relaxed bedhead look would be a great match for Rachel’s understated beauty.

How To:
– First, I wanted to bring volume directly to the base of her crown. I directed air from a high heat blow drier straight up, then teased the roots for a strong lift.

– Then, to create beachy waves and introduce a slight sticky texture for easy-to-style locks, I spritzed Keraste a Porter sea salt spray all over and ran my hands through her hair.

– I used a curling iron to create loose curls at random, then brushed out tangles for body with a tousled twist.

– Beginning Bardot’s signature bump, I separated the top of Rachel’s hair into four equal sections. Curling both sides under, I rolled the top sections towards the back of her head and pinned.

– For frizz control and a highly workable hold, I set the style with Keraste Laque Couture hair spray.

– Since hair-raising volume is our ultimate goal, I brushed out her curls and teased the roots for greater lift. At this point Rachel’s hair was raised at the crown, with subtle waves and a few soft curls.

–  Guaranteeing a great lift, I gathered the now voluminous sections at the peak of her head and pinned at the back—creating a blonde puff of teased blonde locks that fanned from one end of her head to the other. Once more, I sprayed to set her style.

– I curled the remaining hair into a loose chignon behind the bump and secured with pins, allowing strands to fall loosely. No need to overwork Bardot’s bombshell bedhead look!

Voila! We styled Rachel’s long blonde mane into a loose updo with lots of volume—a very sexy classic easily recreated with simple hair supplies.

Sophie and the Charleston Bob

Name: Sophie
Place of Birth: Angers, France
Favorite Music: Eclectic Music
Favorite Curse word: Putain (Meaning “whore” often use in French language like the word FUCK.)

There’s nothing quite like a leisurely summer evening on a rooftop in the city! A group of us were sipping crisp rosé and enjoying a beautiful sunset in the neighborhood of Battery Park. There’s a clear view of the Statue of Liberty in all of her glory—a majestic symbol of the freedom many have grown so accustomed to. And in that very instant I glanced across at Sophie, a friend of mine who works in the restaurant business in downtown Brooklyn.

I admired her petite facial features and long auburn hair. But I imagine a few snips here and there could frame her face quite nicely and bring out that certain “joie de vivre” (joy of life)! Maybe a Modern Charleston Bob? Something easy to manage, sleek, sexy and swanky….

And just like that (because a good stylist is always prepared!), before she could utter the phrase “let freedom ring!” Sophie was seated in front of me, a little apprehensive, yet eager for her transformation to come.

I moistened the hair completely and combed through it. In sections, I took a razor to the ends, liberally cutting off a good 12 inches! Using the razor gave a softness, movement and length to the front, while I then cleaned up the sides and back with scissors to make a nice, angular cut.

Then, I proceeded to do soft layers to emphasize the volume and lightness. I styled the hair with Spray à Porter from Kerastase to bring some texture. I finished the look by using a barrel 3/4 inch to rolled the hair.

Voilà! A femme fatale–Sofie’s new ‘do was fun, fabulous and free!

Music track from Francoise Hardy – Comment de Dire Adieu. Available via iTunes.