Daaimah: Frohawk

A real estate agent by day and entertainment aficionado by night, leather-clad Daaimah sums up her New York panache in one phrase; “I’m a Brooklyn girl!”

“I’m from ProPro,” she continues—what those in-the-know call Prospect Heights. Where’s the action on a Saturday night? She recommends Franklin Park, a burger joint out front with a lively, diverse bar in the back. “It’s everything that Brooklyn stands for—Jamaicans with big Rasta hair, hipsters,” tourists, and many colorful characters. If you’re barhopping, “try the Cucumber Tequila at Chavelas. It’s delicious, and has a great salt and chili pepper rim.”

Daaimah occasionally models, and laughs while explaining her draw towards fashion, “I love the creativity and the glam; it sucks me in!” David wanted to play with Daaimah’s thick curls and create a fun, edgy look perfect for a chic night out in NYC, or easily tamed for a day at the office.

How To:
– For a sleek, wet hold, I blended Mix Forme Fatale hair gel with water and slicked her hair up on one side of the head, combing to keep it flat.

– Keeping Daaimah’s hair taunt, I pinned in a line from front towards the back, reinforcing with a second row.

– I used a blow drier to set the gel, then confirmed the hold with another round of combing, gel and misted water. I then repeated these steps on her other side.

– Once the sides were firmly pinned, I brushed out the curls at the top of her head and teased them vigorously for a big, blown out look. At this point, Daaimah’s hair was pinned flat on both sides with the center teased—her hair looked devilishly wild!

– Reigning in this thick style, I split the hair into two parts and spun them into the center, pinning evenly from front to back for a neat fold.

– To complete the look, I teased the front of her ‘do further, then styled it into a rounded shape and sprayed with Keraste Laque Couture hair spray to finish.

Voila! Daaimah left the salon with a sleek frohawk she could wear out on the town, or tidy up for a day at work.

Phoebe: Sleek ‘80s Curls

“A great bag and shoes can dress up any outfits, even a plain t-shirt,” Phoebe advised, bouncing her heeled suede wedges up and down before being styled at the salon. “I wanted to go to law school when I was younger, but really, I’ve always wanted to get into styling, into fashion.”

“These days I co-own a business,” she continued, “but I think I’ve lost a little passion for my current work. I want do something I’m passionate about!” With zippered cargo pants and a black rock & roll tee featuring a bejeweled print cross splashed across the front, Phoebe could be the poster girl for feminine grunge. “My style varies,” she said, “I definitely like a little rock, but I’m not afraid to get girly. I’m very into accessories.”

With naturally thick, curly hair, Phoebe prefers to keep her beauty look on the natural side. “I usually just do a little makeup and do a little curls but I look like a lioness when I do a blowout!” She laughed. David felt a head of bouncy ‘80s-style curls would flatter Phoebe’s bubbly look.

Hair How To With David:

1. This look is 110% about the curls! I began styling Phoebe’s curls by separating her hair into sections, lightly spritzing each strand, then curling with a ½ inch iron.
2. Once mostly curled, I switched to smaller sections at the top of the hair for textured variety.
3. Phoebe leaned her hair back, then I ran Elixir Kultimate shine serum throughout to loosen her curls plus eliminate frizz and inject healthy shine.
4. For a bop of volume, I tossed her hair forward and teased, then smoothed the top section for a sleeker look around the face.

Voila! Phoebe was rocking ‘80s-style curls.

Beauty How To with Roberto:

Eyes:

I based Phoebe’s makeup with some tinted moisturizer (a dab of foundation mixed in) then filled in her eyebrows with a liner slightly darker than her natural oak. I applied gold cream shadow across the lashes, then made her lashes thicker with a thick streak of liner along the lashline. To define her soft smoky eye, I blended this black liner into her shadow with a fluffy brush—darker along the lashline and edges, of course.

Skin:
Finally, I blended concealer, foundation and a bit of blush into her skin. For an electric pop to match her lipstick (you just wait!) I smoothed an actual streak of coral lipstick into the apples of her cheeks. Then, I completed the look with the thick coral lipstick, this time, across the lips!

Louise: Curled Bob – Layered Volume

Fresh from Paris, Louise is breaking into the fashion industry and enthusiastically exploring the Big Apple. Discovering the city, her initial impression has been of wonder and optimism, “Within three days of arriving, I ran into Mr. Big on the subway!” she exclaimed, “This is a city where anything is possible; here, just by meeting the right people you can do anything!”

Louise’s first two months have been filled with trips to landmarks and spectacular views. Her first visit to Central Park seemed surreal, “It was snowing so the park was deserted,” she described, “snow on the ground and on the trees. It looked just a picture, it was really beautiful.” For the styling session, Louise was dressed in subdued jeans with a leather-print shirt accented by a beaded eagle across the front and a single gold bracelet. Her chocolate hair was thick and curly, about ear length, so David felt a sleek yet voluminous ‘do would flatter and upgrade her cut.


How:

1. First, I removed Louise’s highlights with a  gloss and gave her a quick trim to bring out thick layers especially around the nape of the neck. Then, I distributed a dollop of Kerastase Nutritive Crème Oleo evenly throughout the hair to smooth and moisturize.

2. Using a blow drier and a curled brush, I began to replace Louise’s spirals with full bodied shape minus the kinky texture. I brushed down, directing the blow dryer over my brush to set this new style with heat.

3. As Louise’s hair is quite thick, I pinned sections up as I brushed and continued all around until the hair was mostly straight yet thickly layered with phenomenal body.

5. The goal of this looks is a smooth top layer with va-va-volume at the ends, so I often blew from underneath to further lift.

6.  For matte definition and a slight tackiness, I smoothed a dab of Davines Dry Wax in my hands and worked it through her hair. I redefined her side part and layered bangs, then tousled vigorously and squeezed the ends to arrange the locks.

7. Combatting dryness from the blow dryer and product, I brought Louise’s healthy shine back with a slick of Kerastase Kultimate Oil Crèmethroughout.

8. At last, just a quick spritz of Kerastase K Hair Spray finished the style session.

Voila! A rounded bob with voluminous hair ‘round at the sides yet modern and flat at the top Louise’s—the look is complete!

David’s Tips:
Cutting curly hair is all about working with the layers. Layers equal volume and more defined curls so cut with this in mind. Modern shapes are usually slightly longer at the top with more layers towards the bottom.

Julien: Curly James Dean Crop

With arresting emerald eyes and inky, shoulder length hair loaded with curls—Julien was bubbling with boyish enthusiasm. “Last year, when we thought the world was going to end, my wife and I traveled the world,” Julien brought up, sipping wine at the salon. He launched into a colorful story punctuated with French and frequent laughter. “We started in the Bahamas,” he said, eyes sparkling, then named stops in South America, Europe and numerous countries in Asia—each with accompanying anecdotes. Mid trip, the duo found themselves “[…]on a slow river boat in Laos, towards Vientiane—the Ibiza of Asia—where we rode in rubber tubes and stopped often for drinks at bars lining the banks.”

Julien is an actor, and while he usually pulls the hair back into a ponytail, we wanted to emphasize his facial structure and modernize the look with a trendy twist on James Dean’s timeless cut. “For Julien, I wanted to shorten the sides but leave curls at top of his head a little longer, for a full bodied bouffant,” David said.

We began styling with a toast, “Cheers! To peace in the world,” Julien said, clinking glasses with a smile.

How To:

1. To begin sculpting this modern classic, I pulled his long hair into a ponytail and snipped at the nape of the neck.

2. I parted the remaining sections and began trimming Julien’s hair to under an inch in back and sides, using my index and ring finger as a guide. As his hair forms ringlets, I clipped from right to left for a consistent cut despite the curls.

3. Once the majority of the long hair was gone, I employed a comb for an even closer crop, focusing on even length from ear to ear and under. I trimmed the section by his ears the shortest—modern coifs tend towards clipped sides with more length on top for styling flexibility.

4. Julien’s hair was now at three different lengths, so I checked over once more to ensure all sections faded smoothly into one another. There should be no sharp edges in this crop! James Dean’s hair has a relaxed, tousled quality that should appear casual, not overworked.

5. Once Julien’s cut was complete, I quickly styled it. Using a hair dryer and round brush, I injected volume to the roots of the longer sections of his hair.

6. Finally, I tousled his hair with No. 6 Glossy Plasteline For Wizards wax by Davines and scrunched to bring back his curls.

Voila! Julien had a curly bouffant ala James Dean. “I don’t like it—I love it!” Julien enthused. “Like a glass out of the dishwasher, I was clean before, but now I’ve been polished!”

David’s Hair Tips:
“When I cut men’s hair, I don’t use a buzzer. I dislike them because a buzzer actually splits the hair, so it grows out into split ends. When occasionally I use a razor, I always trim over with sharp scissors.”

Elissa: Spring’s Very Best Braid

Meet Elissa, a Brooklyn-based photographer with a quick laugh and a striking crop of thick, curly blonde hair. “My hair is really easy—I usually just wash it, use some cream then towel dry. I’ll even let it dry on the subway!” she mentioned with a smile. It’s hasn’t always been so bouncy, “When I was in 5th cut it really short, then it suddenly ‘boinged,’ and was curly!”

“I’ve always felt artistically inclined,” she explained, swirling white wine in a glass, “I wanted to be a photographer when I was younger. These days I’m a very hands-on photographer—I like working with film and black and white pictures.”

When she’s not working in the studio, “I explore!” Elissa exclaimed, “My area is really residential, so I explore [elsewhere in Brooklyn]. I really like Williamsburg—went to the Brooklyn Bazaar recently and it was amazing! I told my friend, ‘what is this magical place?’ ”

With a silver loop in her nose, a glittering watch and a blood-red manicure, for Elissa it’s all making standout art. “I love tattoos—it’s artwork on my body!” she said, indicating the cursive words on her wrist—Live, Love, Be. David felt a loose braid garnished with spring blossoms would complement Elissa’s curly look.

How:

1. To begin, I separated Elissa’s curls by hand, pulling the kinky spirals apart throughout her hair. It doubled in size!

2. To minimize frizz and bump up her shine, I spritzed with Kerastase Gloss Appeal shine serum.

3. Then, I drew two small sections just above the ears and rolled them under and towards the nape of the neck, pinning along the way.

4. Imagine a French braid, as I neared the nape, I added more hair to the two sections and created a thick ponytail.

5. I redefined some curls and made Elissa’s locks sleeker with a squeeze of Elixir Kultimate throughout.

6. Then, I braided the ponytail straight down while the remainder of her hair fell free.

7. To complete the look, I wove small pink blossoms into the rolled sections and in the braid—how romantic!

Voila! This free-spirited look is perfect for spring festivals, weddings, or Facebook profile pictures.

Rukhsar: Downton Abbey Updo

Being a part of the salon world since she was 13, Rukhsar knew she wanted to be a hairstylist. A jersey girl who wanted to fulfill her dream in NYC, she found Red Market Salon. A perfect place to start her career. She was trained by David himself before she took off again to find herself. She eventually wants to work behind the scenes of fashion shows and editorial work. ” I love all the excitement and passion of our world field. I’m too creative to be stuck working a 9 to 5 job”

How To:
Using a section of the top of the crown,
create a braid. Tease all of the hair.
Then brush all of the hair into a pony tail and clip it to the top of the crown.

Amanda: Long Wavy Clip in Hair Extensions

Coming a long way from Staten Island and a Heavy Brooklyn accent, Amanda, an edgy, young, and pretty much fully tattooed freelance colorist comes in with a super short bob and the dream to have long hair. “I’m tired of having short hair,” Amanda explains. “I’ve experimented with color on my own hair so much in the past six years that I’ve damaged it and was forced to cut it off.”

Amanda is 21 years old and has been doing color since she was 15. She enjoys everything about the beauty industry, and has pursued a career as a celebrity air brush tan technician and started her own line of hair accessories called ETCnyc that she hopes to be in stores by Summer 2014. “I love making people feel beautiful and changing up their look, sometimes its good to have a change.”

Granting her wishes, David CotteBlanche used 14 inch clip in hair extensions to give her the look of long, sexy, voluminous hair.

First, I pre curled the extensions. I then blow dried and smoothed out Amanda’s hair using Kerastase’s Forme Fatale and the Kerastase Elixir Serum.

Starting a two inch section from the back, I started to tease the hair. I put in two of the clip in extensions.

I created another half inch section, teased it and clipped in two more extensions, I did the same thing all over. I then smoothed out her natural hair over the extensions to cover the clips, and teased the extensions to give volume.

Julie – Vintage Curls-On-The Go Technique

What’s it like coloring hair in a fast-paced Manhattan salon if you’re not yet fluent in English? “It’s a bit strange, but I’m learning day by day,” Julie said. “I don’t feel stressed, I’m confident in what I’m doing and clients are pleased.” This French blonde with thick, straight hair is new to New York and has been a stylist for five years, fulfilling a childhood dream. Her fashion inspirations include Chanel, “I love that minimalist, classic style,” she said. What is Julie’s go-to daily ‘do? “With my own hair, I like to straighten and curl a little bit then pull into a pony tail.”

Her hair is moderately thick and quite long, so we decided on a loose look, curled with a vintage tissue-curling technique. David Cotteblanche, Red Market salon owner, explains that this method has fallen from popularity due to the prevalence of curling irons, but when you’re traveling or in a pinch for styling supplies, all you need for sultry texture and soft waves is a box of tissue, hair spray and some time.

How To:
1. First, I parted Julie’s hair straight down the center and combed to detangle. For texture that makes hair easier to style, I lightly sprayed with K Keraste Hair Spray.

2. Taking a box of tissues, I rolled a single sheet into a long tube slightly thicker than a pencil. Then, separating a section of hair approximately two inches wide and creating a “T” shape against the tissue, I rolled from the end of the hair under, towards the scalp and knotted loosely.

3. For allover curls, I repeated until every section of Julie’s hair was rolled into tissue-secured ties.

4. This style may be left overnight if you have time, or to quicken the process you may choose heat to instantly set the waves. I directed a hairdryer on medium heat over each curl, then spritzed with hair spray for a stronger hold.

5. Once complete, I untied the soft knots to see Julie’s hair fall into smooth, undulating waves. For a lift at the roots, I used the blow dryer to blow her hair directly up, then finger combed throughout for a natural wave.

6. At this point, her hair was had a pleasant bed-headed vibe. I drew two small sections of hair framing her face to the back, then twisted into a knot at the nape and secured with a bobby pin.

7. To complete Julie’s style, I ran my hands lightly over her hair with a dollop of Davines No 13 to tame any unruly strands.

Voila! Julie’s hair had soft, elegant waves with a laid-back knot.

| Make Up by Roberto Casey

Sarah – Scarlett Johansen’s Bouncy Curls

Dressed casually in lace-up booties, acid-wash boyfriend jeans and a crisp chiffon top, fashion student Sarah described her role in the industry. “I’m a design student at FIT—still learning exactly what I want to do, though I know I want to create women’s wear.” Her studies are grounded in looks she might personally wear. Accessorizing simply with a chunky beaded necklace plus chains and glass accents, the cutouts at her shoulders and layered neutrals contributed to a trendy and casual vibe.

“I have a couple of tattoos,” Sarah intimated, eyes sparkling. “I have one on my lower back that I got very young—my parents were not happy. My mother always called me the wild child,” she continued. She laughed often, and we felt a bubbly, curled look inspired by Scarlett Johansen’s unassuming beauty would complement Sarah’s style.

How To:
1. First, I created a side part in Sarah’s hair and blended Keraste Lift Vertige Fixation Gel into the roots for a dense, textured lift.

2. Then, I misted all over with K Keraste Hair Spray. Lightly applying hair spray prior to heat styling gives it great texture for a workable hold.

3. Sarah’s hair was now smooth at the roots, but I wanted bouncy volume at the ends so I blasted air from the blowdryer straight up and tousled.

4. To reduce frizz, I loosely styled with my fingers, then heated a flat iron and began straightening two inch sections from root to tip.

6. Styling away from the face, I flicked the end of Sarah’s hair into curls, a subtler version of Farrah Fawcett’s iconic look. Curling away from the face nicely frames your features!
7. For allover curls, I periodically lifted the upper layer of Sarah’s thick hair to curl underneath, alternating directions until her entire head was styled.

8. Once more, I used the blow drier to spray up from under the hair and tousled for body.

9. Smoothing things back down, I spritzed with Davines Sea Salt Spray and reshaped her curls by hand for a devil-may-care bounce.

10. To finish Sarah’s look with a smooth and brilliant shine, I applied Keraste Gloss Appeal to control flyaways.

Voila! Sarah’s hair was now styled into a lively bob channeling one of Scarlett Johansen’s best curled looks.

Robert,
RobertoOur guest makeup artist Robert dances to the beat of his own drum. He applied Julie and Sarah’s makeup backwards, a trick learned while teaching women to perfect their makeup. “When I apply it backwards, the only thing blocking their face is the brush. They can watch what I do in the mirror and learn it,” he said. “I love, love, love to teach makeup. I teach classes of up to eight people at a time—eight different eyes, eight different looks.”

What drew Robert to the industry? “Working at a department store once, I once saw an uber-hot woman walk up to the M.A.C counter and said, why am I hanging out with guys in the back, when I could be hanging out with her?” he laughed. It took time to get into the rhythm; “I absolutely hated makeup until I figured out why I actually like it. I like the instant gratification. I love stepping back and saying, ‘wow, I did that?’”

Musically inclined with impressive dance moves shown later in the evening, Robert explained that his background is in drumming, though he currently plays the guitar in a band. Infectious laughter and frequent smiles punctuated his makeup application. Robert created simple, natural beauty looks for both Julie and Sarah, with impressively fresh looks in shimmering earth tones.

Get The Modern Faux Bob, Without A Haircut

(Published by Pauline Hevia at heyheygorgeous.com)

David Cotteblanche, co-founder of NYC’s Red Market, shows us a clever way to put your hair in a bob without cutting it. Now you can fashion your hair in the highly sought after 1920′s Great Gatsby look at your next event.

PRODUCTS USED

1 Davines Sea Salt Spray

2 Kerastase Styling Spray

NOW THE HOW-TO

1 Spray Davines Sea Salt Spray into your hair to give it texture.

2 Blow dry hair until dry.

3 Split the top and bottom portion of your hair into two equal sections. Clip the top section of your hair away from the bottom.

4 French braid the bottom section of the hair to the left or right side. This will be used as a base. Fold it over itself and clip it, so that it creates an even base of hair above your neck.

5 Using a curling iron, curl about three inches worth of hair into a roll and clip it, as if in a curler. Cover the top of of your head, evenly, with these clipped in curls.

6 Release the curls and brush them downwards, so that the top of your hair is flattened into soft waves and the bottom is curled.

7 Grab the the back section of your hair and tuck over and beneath the braided base so that it covers it and pin.

8 Use your own fun 1920′s hair accessory to personalize the look!

9 Finally, spray Kerastase Styling Spray into the hair to hold it together.