Phoebe: Sleek ‘80s Curls

“A great bag and shoes can dress up any outfits, even a plain t-shirt,” Phoebe advised, bouncing her heeled suede wedges up and down before being styled at the salon. “I wanted to go to law school when I was younger, but really, I’ve always wanted to get into styling, into fashion.”

“These days I co-own a business,” she continued, “but I think I’ve lost a little passion for my current work. I want do something I’m passionate about!” With zippered cargo pants and a black rock & roll tee featuring a bejeweled print cross splashed across the front, Phoebe could be the poster girl for feminine grunge. “My style varies,” she said, “I definitely like a little rock, but I’m not afraid to get girly. I’m very into accessories.”

With naturally thick, curly hair, Phoebe prefers to keep her beauty look on the natural side. “I usually just do a little makeup and do a little curls but I look like a lioness when I do a blowout!” She laughed. David felt a head of bouncy ‘80s-style curls would flatter Phoebe’s bubbly look.

Hair How To With David:

1. This look is 110% about the curls! I began styling Phoebe’s curls by separating her hair into sections, lightly spritzing each strand, then curling with a ½ inch iron.
2. Once mostly curled, I switched to smaller sections at the top of the hair for textured variety.
3. Phoebe leaned her hair back, then I ran Elixir Kultimate shine serum throughout to loosen her curls plus eliminate frizz and inject healthy shine.
4. For a bop of volume, I tossed her hair forward and teased, then smoothed the top section for a sleeker look around the face.

Voila! Phoebe was rocking ‘80s-style curls.

Beauty How To with Roberto:

Eyes:

I based Phoebe’s makeup with some tinted moisturizer (a dab of foundation mixed in) then filled in her eyebrows with a liner slightly darker than her natural oak. I applied gold cream shadow across the lashes, then made her lashes thicker with a thick streak of liner along the lashline. To define her soft smoky eye, I blended this black liner into her shadow with a fluffy brush—darker along the lashline and edges, of course.

Skin:
Finally, I blended concealer, foundation and a bit of blush into her skin. For an electric pop to match her lipstick (you just wait!) I smoothed an actual streak of coral lipstick into the apples of her cheeks. Then, I completed the look with the thick coral lipstick, this time, across the lips!

Louise: Curled Bob – Layered Volume

Fresh from Paris, Louise is breaking into the fashion industry and enthusiastically exploring the Big Apple. Discovering the city, her initial impression has been of wonder and optimism, “Within three days of arriving, I ran into Mr. Big on the subway!” she exclaimed, “This is a city where anything is possible; here, just by meeting the right people you can do anything!”

Louise’s first two months have been filled with trips to landmarks and spectacular views. Her first visit to Central Park seemed surreal, “It was snowing so the park was deserted,” she described, “snow on the ground and on the trees. It looked just a picture, it was really beautiful.” For the styling session, Louise was dressed in subdued jeans with a leather-print shirt accented by a beaded eagle across the front and a single gold bracelet. Her chocolate hair was thick and curly, about ear length, so David felt a sleek yet voluminous ‘do would flatter and upgrade her cut.


How:

1. First, I removed Louise’s highlights with a  gloss and gave her a quick trim to bring out thick layers especially around the nape of the neck. Then, I distributed a dollop of Kerastase Nutritive Crème Oleo evenly throughout the hair to smooth and moisturize.

2. Using a blow drier and a curled brush, I began to replace Louise’s spirals with full bodied shape minus the kinky texture. I brushed down, directing the blow dryer over my brush to set this new style with heat.

3. As Louise’s hair is quite thick, I pinned sections up as I brushed and continued all around until the hair was mostly straight yet thickly layered with phenomenal body.

5. The goal of this looks is a smooth top layer with va-va-volume at the ends, so I often blew from underneath to further lift.

6.  For matte definition and a slight tackiness, I smoothed a dab of Davines Dry Wax in my hands and worked it through her hair. I redefined her side part and layered bangs, then tousled vigorously and squeezed the ends to arrange the locks.

7. Combatting dryness from the blow dryer and product, I brought Louise’s healthy shine back with a slick of Kerastase Kultimate Oil Crèmethroughout.

8. At last, just a quick spritz of Kerastase K Hair Spray finished the style session.

Voila! A rounded bob with voluminous hair ‘round at the sides yet modern and flat at the top Louise’s—the look is complete!

David’s Tips:
Cutting curly hair is all about working with the layers. Layers equal volume and more defined curls so cut with this in mind. Modern shapes are usually slightly longer at the top with more layers towards the bottom.

Elissa: Spring’s Very Best Braid

Meet Elissa, a Brooklyn-based photographer with a quick laugh and a striking crop of thick, curly blonde hair. “My hair is really easy—I usually just wash it, use some cream then towel dry. I’ll even let it dry on the subway!” she mentioned with a smile. It’s hasn’t always been so bouncy, “When I was in 5th cut it really short, then it suddenly ‘boinged,’ and was curly!”

“I’ve always felt artistically inclined,” she explained, swirling white wine in a glass, “I wanted to be a photographer when I was younger. These days I’m a very hands-on photographer—I like working with film and black and white pictures.”

When she’s not working in the studio, “I explore!” Elissa exclaimed, “My area is really residential, so I explore [elsewhere in Brooklyn]. I really like Williamsburg—went to the Brooklyn Bazaar recently and it was amazing! I told my friend, ‘what is this magical place?’ ”

With a silver loop in her nose, a glittering watch and a blood-red manicure, for Elissa it’s all making standout art. “I love tattoos—it’s artwork on my body!” she said, indicating the cursive words on her wrist—Live, Love, Be. David felt a loose braid garnished with spring blossoms would complement Elissa’s curly look.

How:

1. To begin, I separated Elissa’s curls by hand, pulling the kinky spirals apart throughout her hair. It doubled in size!

2. To minimize frizz and bump up her shine, I spritzed with Kerastase Gloss Appeal shine serum.

3. Then, I drew two small sections just above the ears and rolled them under and towards the nape of the neck, pinning along the way.

4. Imagine a French braid, as I neared the nape, I added more hair to the two sections and created a thick ponytail.

5. I redefined some curls and made Elissa’s locks sleeker with a squeeze of Elixir Kultimate throughout.

6. Then, I braided the ponytail straight down while the remainder of her hair fell free.

7. To complete the look, I wove small pink blossoms into the rolled sections and in the braid—how romantic!

Voila! This free-spirited look is perfect for spring festivals, weddings, or Facebook profile pictures.

Julia: Persian Ponytail

“I’ve got the traveling bug, I love to travel!” Julia smiled brightly, gushing about her latest globetrotting adventures, “I recently visited India, Indonesia, then got to wander all over Europe.” Originally from Uzbekistan, this irrepressibly friendly nurse spent years in Brooklyn but travels at every opportunity. Where’s her favorite spot in New York? “I like the East and West Village, I like the neighborhood-y feel. On an ideal weekend, I would be barbecuing with family—I’m very close with my siblings and family.” We wanted to create and sleek and exotic look with modern art influences—a serious ponytail with plenty of shape. It nods to Julia’s Persian heritage—or at least the Disney film’s adaptation.

Hair How To With David:

1. This style must look perfectly sleek, with absolutely no flywayas. To begin, I lined up a perfectly straight side part, then brushed out her hair for a smooth base.
2. To flatten her roots, I sprayed K Kerastase sair spray then pulled her hair into a ponytail and smoothed the top of her head with my hands to eliminate frizz.
3. I secured this look with a tie, then pushed a medium sized foam ball (I got a pack from an art supply store) level with the tie, and spread Julia’s ponytail to completely cover the ball. I tied the remainder of the hair again just under the ball, sticking pins into the foam to keep Julia’s hair from sliding to expose it.
4. I repeated this process with two more foam balls, each smaller than the last.
5. Finally, I spritzed all over with K Kerastase Hair Spray and ran my hands across her hair to smooth one last time.

Voila! A modern Persian ponytail!

Beauty How To With Roberto:

Eyes:
Since her hair’s got a modern, almost architectural look to it, I want stark contrast with a strong cat eye. First, I filled in Julia’s brows with a stark, dark chocolate color. Before applying gel liner to her lids, I marked the lines with eye shadow for an even cat eye. Because of the shape of Julia’s eyes, I applied more thick gel liner to her lower lashes–I mixed with black cream since
my gel was a little dry. It created an ultra-black line, with a great flick at the end.

Skin:
For her skin, I blended and applied foundation—I purposefully used shades much lighter than her tone for a stark contrast with the brows and liner. Then I contoured with a darker, very thick concealer under the cheekbones. I blended a little concealer under the eyes, then completed the look with a pop of gold eye shadow on the lips for a sleek highlight.

Marine: Classic Curled Romance

Marine speaks in a lilting British accent with a dab of European finesse, and dresses simply in dark wash jeans, a soft black blouse with a matching blazer and slick ballet flats—due to a recent sprained ankle. She wears her shoulder length mahogany hair loose, and her olive skin is awash with natural freckles. She accessorizes with a single strand of pearls and a silver bracelet, Celtic-style, with infinity knots. It’s a little difficult to peg Marine from a first impression—where is she from? Where does she work? “I speak French, German, English and Spanish” Marine clarified, conversing fluently with French hairdresser David and myself. “I’m French. I’ve done a lot of traveling in Europe, but am seriously considering moving [to New York],” she explains, “I’m interning at a law firm off Wall Street these days.” While French lawyers enjoy shorter hours and more opportunities, Marine has developed a soft spot for the renowned freedom in the Big Apple, “New York is so dynamic!” she exclaimed, “Here, you can have an idea and no one will say you can’t do it, or to think twice.” David felt a layered, romantic glamour look would give her business-casual look extra “oomph.”

Hair How To With David:

1. I began with a quick trim, creating bouncy layers all over but especially in the bangs, to frame Marine’s face.
2. Then, I quickly brushed her hair to smooth and created a neat side part.
3. Separating her hair into small sections, I sprayed lightly with K Kerastase hair spray before curling, then pinned to secure. I was careful to pin at the roots so they remained flat—for this look, we want all the volume below her jawline.
4. I applied the curling iron to the entire head hair, flicking away from her face, then alternating directions throughout for a more natural look.
5. Once complete, I removed Marine’s pins and brushed her curls out, squeezing here and there to reshape, especially around the face.
6. To finish the look, I spritzed with K Kerastase Hair Spray again for all-night hold, then hand shaped until I was happy with her look.

Voila! Curled glamour ala Downtown Abbey!

Beauty How To With Roberto:

Eyes:
I wanted to warm up Marina’s pale tones a bit, for a matching glamour look with a sweet flush.
As always, I began by treating her face to moisturizer. I brushed her lips with a rose tinted balmas a base, then curled her lashes and applied shimmering eye shadow across the lids. I createda straight, arrowlike streak of inky liner on her upper lashes, then used a brush to apply a more subtle line on her lower lashes. Next, I filled in her brows with light strokes of chocolate and taupe—darker in the arch, then taupe throughout. Finally I applied mascara—just one layer, but with lots and lots of strokes to avoid clumps or unnatural thickness.
Skin:
Next, I turned my attention to her skin by blending several shades of foundation and blush to warm the skin. I completed the look with deep purple lips, and one layer of gloss to make her look pop!

Mallary: The Fishtail & The Cat Eye

“I spend a lot of time in the West Village,” Mallery smiled, sipping white wine at the salon. “It feels really cozy to me—it feels like home.” In a fast-paced, crowded city like New York, it’s important to be feel centered before joining the bustling crowd. Mallery? She’s up for it all. “I’m a very social person,” she continued with a grin, “I like to go out with friends.”

Dressed stylishly in a standout maroon peplum top plus sparkling accent necklace, it comes as no surprise this honey brunette works in the fashion industry. “I would describe my style as pretty feminine, but I like to mix it up!” She laughed. Referring to her ebony moto jacket, “I got this leather jacket post-break up and basically haven’t taken it off since. My style is inspired by coworkers and the industry!” With long, wavy hair, Mallery’s style options are plenty. We felt a kittenish tribute to
classic ‘60s glam—a cat eye—modernized with a teased side pony and loose fishtail ala Blake Lively would complement her look well.
Hair How To With David:
1. Mallery’s beachy-formal fishtail look is all about teased texture, so to begin this style, I spritzed all over with sea salt spray and finger teased for a grittier ‘do.
2. To amplify her volume, I used a blow drier for chunky body. Then, I separated strands of her hair and curled the tips for a softer, natural wave. For this look, only curl the tips!
4. Beginning the fishtail, I drew a section by the ear and braided, leaving the rest of her hair free.
5. Instead of securing with rubber tie, I backcombed to seal the braid. Then, I tugged along the fishtail to loosen Mallary’s braid for a wider, less tidy look.
6. Drawing the remainder of her hair to the same side, I pinned to secure by the base of the braid. At this point, all of her hair was braided or pinned in the same area, and appeared to be a side ponytail with a loose fishtail accent down the center.
7. Next, I teased the remaining hair and scrunched, rolled and pinned to hold by the base of the braid.
8. Finally, I neatened the look with Kerastase K Touch Finale by smoothing stray tendrils and sweeping across the top of her hair.
Voila! The loose fishtail was complete!
Hair Tips:
Now that spring is coming and we’re all dreaming of the sun, everyone’s looking for the soft waves you get from salty beach hair. Capture this look with sea salt spray and a curling iron. Simply spritz, curl then finger comb the spirals into loose waves and you’re ready to go!
Beauty How To With Roberto:
Skin:
As always, I began with a fresh, clean face. Removing all makeup, I began her look with a moisturizer base. I targeted blues or purples under the eye with a dab of concealer. I further evened her complexion with an allover layer of foundation—keep in mind that I’m blending tones to match Mallary’s natural shade. A single concealer shade all over the face can make you look flat! I contoured the cheeks with blush and bronzer— what I call “shadowing,” and blended to smooth.
Eyes:
Next, I filled in the brow (my darkest shade at the arch) and thickened Mallery’s lash line with a skinny streak of gray liner. For longer-lasting shadow, I applied primer to the lids then blended the shadow. To make her eyes pop, I smoothed a dot of highlighter above and below the brow, and also on the inside of the eye.
I brought the look together with a layer of mascara then lined the lashes with gel liner once more—it takes a few layers to get the pop we’re going for! For a strong cat eye, I marked the point of her liner with dots, and checked that the dots were equidistant and level. Then, I drew the gel liner downwards towards the eye for a statement cat eye. Finally, I completed the look with blended color on the lips. For a perkier pucker, I applied an extra layer of lipstick around the center of the lips. Voila!Mallary’s beauty look was complete, with a striking cat eye!

Brunilde: The Girls of Paris SS/14

“My hair grows so fast!” Bru exclaimed, untying her waist-length blonde hair from a loose bun. “I went to a salon [in France] a year ago and asked them to cut my hair to my shoulders. They only cut an inch or two, so I went home and cut it myself!” she laughed.

“I moved from Paris to Chinatown about seven months ago,” she continued, “I love living there because there’s a lot of activity and movement. We could watch the Chinese New Year parade from the fire escape!” With straight hair parted dead center, inky leather boots, denim and a crop top with ruffled details—Bru’s vibe was very ‘60s bohemian. David was inspired by a modern, high fashion interpretation of this look, seen on the catwalks of Paris during the 2014 spring/summer fashion week. This Parisian look combines a very chic and sleek top with sexy curls and teased volume towards the ends. It’s a classic beauty look, but with just a few teaks looks fresh, trendy, and is easy to recreate!


How:
1. First, I brushed out Bru’s hair with a blow drier trained at the roots and over the brush, to make the hair appear sleeker and shinier.

2. Turning my attention to the ends, I began rolling her hair partway up with a set of 1” hot rollers, spraying each section lightly withKerastase K Hair Spray. Once misted, I curled the locks under and pinned.

3. I continued across the back and along the sides, leaving the top layer of Bru’s hair for last. I pulled the sections by her ears back, taunt, so they remained flat to the head. Finally, I curled the top layer partway up with the same size rollers.

5. After 5 minutes or so, I removed the hot rollers then began to tease and brush. I backcombed, focusing all the teased volume to the ends of Bru’s hair.

6. Further developing that sleek top, I smoothed K Forme Fatale gel from the roots outward for a layer of pin-straight hair. Then, I used flat pins to pull the hair by her roots completely flat.

7. But back to fun part—her curls! I flipped Bru’s hair upside down and brushed, blow dried then mussed up the texture. Finally, I flipped her hair back and tucked behind the ears.

8. Channeling the quintessential ‘60s hippie, I parted directly down the center then split the hair so equal parts spilled down both shoulders. Remember, pin straight from the root, and messy-voluminous curls towards the end.

9. Set the look with another spray of Kerastase and voila! Parisian fashion week.

Jacqueline – The Messy Mystique Updo

Meet Jacqueline, an e-marketer in the New York fashion industry. What’s her daily beauty routine? For beauty, “I prefer a more natural look,” Jacqueline stated, “I don’t like to pile it on! I’m more of a minimalist and I don’t like to clutter. It takes maybe 10 minutes to do my hair with a blow dryer in the morning.”

In a world of ever-changing trends, a strong sense of personal style never goes out of fashion. How would this fashionista describe her vibe? “My style is ‘90s grunge with prints and a statement piece, like a necklace. I love my leather jacket – I use it to pull together any outfit.” What’s the look to dress for this season? “For spring, pastels and prints are really in – I own 5-6 pairs of printed pants,” Jacqueline explained with almost a sheepish smile. “I have this blue, beaded necklace to I’ll use to take an outfit to the next level.” Exuding grunge-chic vibes, we felt a modern take on the classic updo would match Jacqueline’s style perfectly.

Hair How To With David:

1. Sleek updos are a glamorous hallmark—but why limit them to formal events? A few bobby pins and a little teasing is all you need for everyday glam! To begin Jacqueline’s style, I combed to detangle then misted all over with Kerastase hair spray.

2. Using a double barrel curler, I separated her hair into 2-3 inch sections and curled for loose waves. This step is all about waves; no curls, no frizz, just waves! I curled the entire head, misting each section lightly with hair spray to set.

3. Working my way to the top layer, I switched to a looser double curler and created spirals to frame Jacqueline’s face. At this stage her mane appeared crimped, with a few ringlets mixed in.

4. Mussing up the back of her head, I teased the crown for messy volume then whipped the majority of her hair into a loose and low ponytail, leaving the curled top section loose.

5. Continuing to tease for volume and beautifully untidy texture, I drew the remaining hair back and over, then pinned at the base for a bouffant look—pin all over to secure. Remember, this updo is all about the mess so if it’s too neat, tease some more!

6. For all-night hold, I completed the look with a final spritz of hair spray.

Voila! A glamorous, messy updo in six quick steps.

Beauty How To With Roberto:

Skin:
Always start with a clean, make-up free face and moisturize. I used a heavy moisturizer for Jacqueline—you can do this in lieu of a primer if you’d like. Blending several shades of foundation to match her skin tone, I applied all over for an even and matte look. Just a touch of blush and bronzer on the cheeks got Jacqueline glowing—then I swiped a small amount of sparkling eye shadow on the cheeks and blended.

Eyes:
For brighter eyes, I dabbed a bit of highlighter just above the brows and in the corners. To make her hazel eyes glow, I chose purple eyeliner as a shadow base then blended with a fluffy brush for smooth lids. Then, I mixed taupe liner with pearlized shadow and applied just under the eyes. A streak of gel liner and two layers of jet black black mascara completed her eyes. Just a kiss of light color on the lipand Jacqueline’s soft beauty look was complete!

Amanda: Playful Rocker Look

Amanda. What? Hair dresser and receptionist. When? Since she was 15. Where? Amanda lives in the Bronx. How Long? Born and raised in New York. With a short styled crop and long lashed doe eyes, Amanda exudes playful vibe with a rock n’ roll twist. “I like my hair messy and wild! I’m pretty busy, so I usually wet it before bed then add conditioner for great texture the next day.”

Soon after joining us in the salon, Amanda rolled up her sleeves and unbuttoned her jean blouse for a peek at elaborate ink designs. “I love tattoos—I have a tattoo on my chest, one on my side and the words Carpe Diem on my hand. I don’t have to keep my tats covered for work as long as I wear all black. I love it!” Amanda’s cut is similar to Jennifer Lawrence’s new pixie, so we used the actress’ lively look as inspiration and give it an edgy twist.

Hair How To With David:

1. A frisky cropped coif  calls for styling paste plus lots of hands on attention! I began by combing Amanda’s hair into an extreme side part.

2. We’re going for a sleek look at the bottom layer, so I applied Davines Hold Crème around ear level then combed around the back to follow the shape of Amanda’s neck. I left the top hair layer untouched.

3. With a blow drier on low heat, I brushed to smooth and set this sleek layer.

4. Amanda’s tousled, playful rocker look is all about the texture! Straightened hair is easier to style, so I flat ironed the untouched layer to prep her look.

5. Then, I teased with K Kerastase sculpting hair paste and created distinct pieces by squeezing locks together to emphasize Amanda’s cut and layers.

6. Once her hair was wild with piecey volume, I set the look with Kerastase hair spray. Finally, I styled the crown for an added bump of volume that brings attention to the face.

Voila! Amanda’s hair looked playful and sexy.

Beauty How To With Roberto:

Skin:
Always begin your makeup application with a good moisturizer—with Amanda I used a brush for quicker and more even application. I dabbed concealer under the eyes and the point of her brows and filled in her brows for a stronger look.  Since Amanda’s face is heart shaped, I brushed her blush high on the cheekbones, where I would typically use a highlighter. This flatters her facial structure!

Eyes:
Emphasizing her doe eyes is easy—I smoothed glittery shadow crème all over the lids, then penciled her lash line thickly with a purple liner to bring Amanda’s hazel eyes pop. An overworked look is no fun, so I blended a dot of highlighter on her lids and just under the brow.  This highlights your shape in a flattering way! For an edgy finish, I blended lip shades for a unique plum that complemented Amanda’s tone.

Samantha: Screen Siren Va-Va-Volume

Samantha’s wanted to sing on stage since childhood, “I remember being in a play when I was three—I was so afraid to be on stage!” Now she craves it, “I’m actually working on a cabaret right now! On weekends, I seek out karaoke.”

This theater student loves whipping up dishes in her spare time, “I like making the Italian classics like spaghetti and meatballs, I cook dinner every night.” With thick, chocolate-y locks, Samantha’s style options are limitless. “I’m pretty laid back with my hair though. I usually leave it down and keep my natural wave, or just put it up with a sock bun.” We felt an easy-to-style, classic curled look ala Monica Bellucci’s would suit Samantha’s classic star beauty.

Hair How To With David:

1. To begin Samantha’s hairstyle, I gave her a quick trim and created layers for a rounder, bouncier look. Sexy hair is all about layered volume—I wanted to bring sexy back!

2. For great elevation from the base, I parted her hair then applied Kerastase Lift Vertige gel at the roots and combed to distribute.

3. Separating the hair into sections, I used a round brush to dry and smooth her mane. Then, I rolled Samantha’s hair up into big curls and pinned at the head.

4. There’s no need to leave them in long—my goal is loose curls with major volume rather than distinct spirals.

5. After a short time, I removed the pins and brushed out her curls. Focusing a blow drier at the roots, I tousled and teased with my fingers for a lifted, bouncy look.

6. Reshaping Samantha’s side part and scrunching curls here and there to neaten, I back combed at the crown for a burst of volume.

7. Finally, I spritzed with hairspray to complete the look.

Voila! Samantha had screen siren hair with major, sexy volume!

Beauty How To With Roberto:

Skin:
I’m going to give Samantha strong smoky eyes with a fresh and dewy face! We’ll start this with a great moisturizer base applied evenly with a brush. For smooth skin tone with a healthy shine, I layered a brightening serum in addition to a light foundation. Using a tipped brush then tapping with my finger, I further corrected the tone by blending concealer under the eyes and alongside her nose. Next, I brushed her cheekbones with matte powder and a bit of blush for a fresh glow. For a wickedly smooth complexion, I completed the look with a sweep of hyaluronic powder across the cheeks.

Eyes:
Creating a slick base, I took a creamy pencil liner and smoothed over her lids with a brush. Then, working with the same shadow, I blended the tone and switched brushes for a harder line with more intensity at the lash line and corners. It’s just common sense—harder brushes create cleaner, darker lines while soft brushes easily blend color for the texture you want. For a strong ebony streak, I applied gel liner to thicken the look of Samantha’s lashes. Finally, I applied mascara for a wide-eyed, movie star gaze. I gave her thick, fanned out lashes by applying pressure at the roots and flicking up to catch the thin tips.

Roberto’s Make Up Tips: Mascara got you clumpy? Next time, apply heavy pressure at the roots as you fan the lashes out and flick to the tips. Pressure, flick, problem fixed!

Roberto’s Make Up Tips: Avoiding a hard foundation line is easy—you can wear a turtleneck, or just apply the right shade the first time! An easy trick is to match the cheekbone with the light skin on the neck, and match the darker tones just under the cheekbone with your shoulder blades.